Gaja Barbaresco 2014

This isn't just a great wine for what was a notoriously cool, wet vintage, it's quite simply a magnificent wine. Perfumed and loaded with finesse, it opens with scents of woodland berry, iris and baking spice while the vibrant, balanced palate doles out Marasca cherry, dark culinary spice, crushed herb and menthol. Refined tannins and fresh acidity provide the taut framework while a licorice note wraps around the finish. Gorgeous. Drink 2022-2034. (Cellar Selection)

Gaia Gaja tells me 2014 was one of the best vintages ever in Barbaresco, if not the best for her vineyards. She cites the prolonged growing season that continued at a slow rate during the cooler summer months only to speed up thanks to a heat spell at the very end, right before harvest. Nebbiolo loves slow maturity and a prolonged growth cycle: The 2014 vintage did indeed get off to an exceptionally slow start. The 2014 Barbaresco is not austere or astringent. Instead, it offers plump ripeness with rich fruit flavors backed by spice, licorice and tobacco. The wine offers good structure from the point of view of its tannins, yet there is no harshness or bitterness whatsoever.