Torbreck Vintners The Struie 2020

The black ink and lead pencil aromas are impressive with blackberry and raspberry aromas that are intense and fresh. Full-bodied, blackberry, blueberry and crushed stone. Flavorful and chewy. Lots of center palate here. Wow. This needs time to soften. Great structure and length. Better after 2026.

If ever there was a high-octane vintage in the Barossa, it would be 2020. Warm and the second in a row of drought conditions, yields were down as much as 70% in some areas. So, to look at this inky black 2020 The Struie in the glass, the year that birthed it makes sense. As ever, a blend of Barossa and Eden, with cigar box, tobacco leaf, blackberries, mulberries, salted licorice and more density of tannin than you can poke a stick at. In the mouth, the texture is velvety and plush; however, the tannins need air to help them release the fruit as we know they will. Decant it or risk missing the best this has to offer. I would say this also: this kind of wine is what made Barossa (and by extension, Australia) famous, and the modern iteration of it here shows the big, muscly style is still valid and exciting, especially when executed with this kind of nuance and detail. Really impressive.

The Struie blends both Barossa and Eden Valley fruit for a rich, high-octane Shiraz destined for the cellar. There's a nose-full of plump plum and blackberry and savory, earthy spices (think ground pepper, bay leaf and mocha), with an underbelly of violets and charred-root vegetable. The palate is plush yet structured, with a touch of alcohol heat showing. Spicy, granular tannins are mighty and muscular, framing the glossy fruit. Drink 2025-2045.