Altos Las Hormigas' 2021 Malbec from the Altamira appellation in Mendoza comes from silty soils at their Jardín Altamira vineyard. This is a wine that expresses the region's particular character with clarity and depth.
Purple flowers and dark stone fruit rise from the glass in a broad, open bouquet that feels both generous and controlled. On the palate the wine spreads horizontally across the mouth with textural richness and a tense, laser-focused core that drives toward a finish that is simultaneously refreshing and grounded. What strikes most is the interplay of florality and breadth, a wine that sits low and wide rather than reaching vertically upward, all while maintaining real depth beneath the surface. This is a complete, three-dimensional expression of Malbec.
From silty soils at the estate Jardín Altamira site, the 2021 Malbec Appellation Altamira is another benchmark example of Altamira's distinctiveness. A broad, expansive and expressive bouquet of crystal-clear purple flower aromas bounds from the glass, supported by a rich yet measured bed of black and purple fruits. The palate is both wide and broad, with a laser-focused, tensile core, releasing into a finish that is equally high and refreshing yet deep and grounded. This is all about flowers and textural breadth, sitting lower in the mouth with a pronounced horizontal richness, juxtaposing the equally fantastic Appellation Gualtallary bottling, which exudes a more vertical, stony profile with a distinctly herbal bouquet. Even while attempting to correct for vintage variation, I find the Altamira wine a touch more complete and three-dimensional, but it really is splitting a hair.