Nebbiolo grown in the Barolo zone of Piedmont tends toward power and grip, and that character is exactly what La Spinetta draws out in this Riserva bottling, Campè, from the 2007 vintage. This is the muscular end of the appellation, a wine built for structure rather than early charm, the Barolo counterpoint to the more streamlined Barbarescos in the house range.
Expect a dense, tightly wound red that leads with dark fruit and black currant, then folds in spice, cola, and an earthy note of truffle. There is real brawn here, more textural tension than the softer wines around it, yet the mouthfeel stays velvety and tightly knit. It rewards patience, and time in the glass lets that density unwind.
I tasted some beautiful Barbarescos before this sample, but the power and the vigor of the Barolo appellation comes through with undeniable clarity here. The 2007 Barolo Riserva Campè Vürsù (Magnum) is a wine of muscle, brawn and fortitude. It shows more textural tightness and density than the Barbarescos of the same vintage (also in magnum) that are softer and more streamlined in comparison. This gorgeous bottle opens to dark fruit, black currant, spice, cola and earthy truffle. Ultimately, this wine's most memorable quality is the velvety, tightly-knit nature of its mouthfeel. (Wine Advocate, September 2018)