Barr-Eden Avenue To Gold Shiraz 2017 (750ml) *

Shiraz grown in the cool heights of Eden Valley in South Australia tends to trade the sheer power of warmer sites for a bit more perfume and lift, and this 2017 bottling sits squarely in that mold. It is a second label, which usually means the same hands and thinking applied to fruit meant for earlier, more approachable drinking, and here that translates into a supple, generous red that still keeps its shape.

The nose opens with something floral and almost powdery, a talcum lift over ripe boysenberry fruit. On the palate it is full-bodied and creamy, but tangy acids run through the middle and keep it from turning heavy, while savory notes of black olive and espresso pull it back toward the dry, earthier end of the spectrum. It has the balance to hold and improve over the coming decade.