Bassermann-Jordan Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs 2017 (750ml) *

Grosses Gewächs is Germany's designation for dry wines from its finest single vineyards, and this bottling from Bassermann-Jordan comes off the Jesuitengarten site in Forst, one of the Pfalz's storied crus. It is Riesling made in the fully dry (trocken) style, from the 2017 vintage, a wine built for the table rather than for early, fruity charm.

The register here is more reserved than exuberant, with green, herbal aromatics leading the way. The texture is the draw: plush across the palate, with a faint oiliness that speaks to a glycerol-rich weight. A bittersweet, nutty edge and those savory herbal notes carry through, and a thread of mouthwatering salinity keeps the long, layered finish taut and lively.