Cordero San Giorgio SG'67 Pinot Nero 2019 (750ml) *

Lombardy's Oltrepò Pavese has long been a stronghold for Pinot Nero, the Italian name for Pinot Noir, and this Riserva bottling from Cordero San Giorgio makes the case for the grape as a serious red rather than a base for sparkling wine. The 2019 vintage is given extended aging before release, and it leans toward the richer, riper end of what the variety can offer here.

Expect real concentration and depth, with ripe cherry and wild plum at the center, lifted by lavender and dried roses. There is a stony, mineral edge running underneath the dark fruit, and hints of licorice and balsamic spice emerge as the wine opens. The texture is weighty and silken, framed by a web of fine tannins that carry a long, structured finish. This is a wine built for patience; it rewards air in the glass and time in the cellar to let its density unwind.