Cordero San Giorgio SG'67 Pinot Nero 2020 (750ml) *

Pinot Nero has quietly become the calling card of Oltrepò Pavese, the hilly stretch of southern Lombardy where the grape (Burgundy's Pinot Noir) finds cool sites and turns out reds of finesse rather than force. This 2020 bottling from Cordero San Giorgio, the SG'67, works in that lighter-framed, aromatic register the region is known for, a red built more on perfume and restraint than on weight.