Domaine Benoit Badoz Côtes Du Jura Vin Jaune 2018 (375ml) *

Few wines carry the mystique of Vin Jaune, the deliberately oxidative style of the Jura in eastern France, made from Savagnin and aged for years under a veil of yeast that develops on the wine's surface. This 2018 from Domaine Benoit Badoz sits squarely in that tradition: a Côtes du Jura bottling that trades fruit-forward freshness for the tang and depth that come only from long, patient aging exposed to air.

Expect an aromatic rush of walnut, bruised apple, and something like raw bread dough, with a wisp of dried straw adding to the complexity. It is full-bodied and concentrated, yet it keeps a real sense of vitality, and the finish carries those savory, nutty notes well past the last sip. This is a wine for slow drinking and thoughtful pairings, comté cheese and roast poultry among them.