Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Colli Tortonesi Derthona 2023 (750ml) *

Timorasso is the white grape behind Derthona, the traditional name for the wine grown in the Colli Tortonesi hills of eastern Piedmont, and this bottling from Giacomo Borgogno & Figli is a 2023 example of it. Long associated with the Barolo country to its west, the producer here works with a grape that fell nearly out of use before its revival, and the wine carries the local place-name that has come to stand for the variety itself.

Timorasso tends to combine real body with a firm line of acidity, a white built more on structure and texture than on overt fruit, and one that many find rewards a little time in the glass or in the cellar. Expect a dry, savory style rather than a soft or aromatic one.