White Lambrusco is a small surprise: a red grape vinified pale and made to sparkle, here from Lini Oreste e Figli in Emilia-Romagna, the region most associated with the variety. Bottled without a vintage as a non-vintage cuvée, this is a fizzy, easygoing style of wine, the kind Emilia tends to pour alongside its rich cooking, where a little bubble and brisk acidity cut through the table.