Marie-Thérèse Chappaz Valais Grain Pinot Les Esserts 2023 (750ml) *

Pinot Noir turns up in some unexpected corners of the wine world, and the Swiss Valais is one of the quieter ones. This bottling comes from Marie-Thérèse Chappaz in Fully, working fruit grown on the left bank of the Rhône, at the lower reaches of the slope. The 2023 saw a long fermentation in stainless steel, running three to four weeks, followed by a year in barrel. At 13.1% alcohol, it sits on the lighter, more transparent end of the varietal.

Cherry leads the way, aromatic and lifted, with a spicy edge behind it. The palate is where it earns its keep: silky in texture but pulled taut by a saline freshness that keeps everything bright, then a fine grip and a gently bitter finish that ask for food. This is red wine for the table rather than the pedestal, the sort of thing that flatters Raclette or a plate of cold cuts.