$45.99
The Saar, a cool tributary valley within the Mosel, tends to give Riesling a taut, mineral cast, and this Spätlese from Markus Molitor's holdings in the Ockfener Bockstein leans fully into that. The White Capsule marks it as a dry bottling, made at a modest 11% alcohol, from the 2020 vintage. This is Riesling built for structure rather than sweetness.
The nose is concentrated and pure, ripe orchard fruit threaded through with flinty, crystalline slate. On the palate it turns bone dry, saline and savory, with peach and lemon set against a fine mineral spine. The finish is long and precise, austere in its youth and still holding much in reserve, the kind of wine that rewards patience in the glass. Give it air and floral, spring-meadow notes begin to surface. Ready to follow now or to hold.
A very subtle and elegant dry Saar wine with a stunning interplay of crystalline minerality with delicate peach and lemon fruit. Very long, precise finish that you could study for hours. And with some aeration, spring-meadow and floral aromas well up out of the glass. Drink or hold. (James Suckling)
The 2020 Riesling Ockfener Bockstein Spätlese (White Capsule) is pure yet dense and aromatic on the well-concentrated nose that shows ripe fruit and crystalline and flinty slate aromas. On the palate, this is a very elegant and bone dry, saline and savory Riesling trocken that (still?) doesn't sing at this early stage but shows substance, intensity and structure on the quite austere finish. 11% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in July 2022. (Wine Advocate, August 2022)