$156.99
The White Capsule designation in the Markus Molitor system signals a Riesling that leans toward the drier side of Auslese ripeness, a style built for tension rather than sweetness. This one comes from the Wehlener Sonnenuhr in the Mosel, a steep slate site above the village of Wehlen, in the 2019 vintage. Riesling grown on these slopes tends to carry ripe fruit and mineral cut in equal measure, and the Auslese picking here means fully ripe grapes without the wine tipping into overt richness.
The nose is deep and intensely ripe, full of tropical stone fruit (mango, golden passion fruit, persimmon) layered over crushed, flinty slate and a saline, iodine edge. On the palate it is rich and crystalline at once, with vibrant, finely drawn acidity and a real sense of grip and coiled power. What stands out is the structure: firm, serious, even a touch austere in its youth, with salt and a tannic pull on the long finish. This is a wine to hold. Give it time in the cellar and its layers should open into something considerably more generous.
The 2019 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese *** (White Capsule) offers a deep, ripe and highly intense yet refined and noble bouquet of ripe (tropical) stone fruits such as mango, golden passion fruit and persimmon, finely crushed and flinty slate as well as iodine notes. Rich and intense yet highly refined and crystalline on the palate, with vibrant yet finessed acidity and lots of elegant or even subversive power, grip and tension, this is a highly elegant, multilayered and endlessly salty as well as frisky Sonnenuhr that delivers all the charm and complexity we may expect from this praised grand cru but rarely had in our glasses as perfectly as it comes here. This is a sustainable Sonnenuhr that I have rarely tasted with such a firm and serious structure and initial austerity. The wine has salt and tannic grip on the finish, but it has to be aged for another 8-10 years at least. One day this might be another giant from the Molitor category of "physical drinking." Tasted from AP 52 20 in May 2021. (Wine Advocate, June 2021)