$46.99
Spätlese from the Mosel comes in many guises, and this Riesling from Markus Molitor sits on the cooler, more nervy end of the spectrum. The fruit comes from the Wehlener Klosterberg, a site in a side valley near the domaine, and the green capsule marks Molitor's own coding for the style in the bottle. This is 2020, a low-alcohol wine at 11 percent, sealed under natural cork, and built to reward patience rather than immediate drinking.
The nose is pure and radiant, with a fine flinty, almost stony edge and a coolness that reads as elegance rather than austerity. On the palate it manages to be lush and delicate at once, savory and saline, with a crystalline structure holding everything in tension. The concentrated core of fruit is there, but so is a real backbone of extract and drive that runs through a long, mineral finish. It is genuinely young now and will unwind over many years.
The 2020 Riesling Wehlener Klosterberg Spätlese (Green Capsule) is pure and radiant on the earthy, finely flinty, very elegant and rather coolish nose. Lush yet delicate and elegant on the palate, this is a savory, saline and tensioned Riesling from a cooler terroir in a side valley next to the domaine. The wine reveals crystalline structure and a sustainable, saline and tensioned finish, but it is far too young to be served in the next couple of years. Extract, expression and tension, as well as its concentrated fruit core, make this a very promising Spätlese for two and more decades. A hidden gem of the giant Molitor portfolio. 11% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine from AP 20 21 in July 2022. (Wine Advocate, August 2022)