$36.99
Kabinett sits at the lightest, most delicate end of the Riesling scale, and this bottling from Markus Molitor draws on the Zeltinger Himmelreich, a steep site in the Mosel. The 2022 vintage is barely off-dry, with a stated 9% alcohol that keeps everything airy and low-slung. The green capsule marks it out within Molitor's color-coded system, and it belongs to the classic Mosel tradition of low-alcohol, high-energy Riesling built for the table rather than the cellar shelf.
The nose leans into green plum, ripe stone fruit, and a cool mineral edge, with floral and faintly herbal notes lifting behind it. On the palate it is more substantial than the Kabinett label might suggest, round and mouthfilling, with a savory grip that runs through a long finish. There is residual sugar here, but the acidity frames it so tightly that the wine reads closer to dry than sweet, all lift and tension and clean fruit. Bright and youthful now, with the balance to reward a few years of patience.
Striking nose of Reine Claude (green) plums. At once cool, crisp and juicy this light-bodied barely off-dry riesling has plenty of energy. Good substance and very clean. Drink or hold. (James Suckling)
The 2022 Riesling Zeltinger Himmelreich Kabinett (Green Capsule) opens with a very clear, bright, fresh and coolish yet intense bouquet of ripe and lush stone fruits, wet stones and beautiful floral and vegetal notes. This Zeltinger is dense, round and intense, savory and well-structured, still very youthful and quite mouthfilling for the Kabinett predicate. The finish is savory and rather dry, even though the 2022 cannot hide its residual sugar. However, the finish makes it a rather dryish-tasting Riesling Kabinett with an alive-and-kicking character. 9% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in August 2024 form AP 144 23. (Wine Advocate, October 2024)