Parusso Perarmando Barolo DOCG 2021 (750ml) *

Named for Armando, who founded the Parusso estate in 1971, this is a Nebbiolo drawn from the Barolo zone in Piedmont, blending fruit from the Mosconi, Mariondino and Bussia crus. The 2021 sits at the entry point of the house range, though "entry" undersells it. High-stem inclusion (in the 80 to 90 percent range) shapes the wine's frame, and the result is a Barolo built on structure and savory intensity rather than easy charm.

The nose is linear and focused, leading with dried herb, bramble and dark grape skins, then opening onto rose and dried iris. There is real power here: red cherry fruit, mocha, incense and exotic spice, all dialed up, carried across a long finish that closes on clove. The tannins are large and imposing, still a touch raw and assertive in youth, so this wants either patience or a decanter. Give it time and the savory framework should settle into place.