San Salvatore Omaggio A Gillo Dorfles IGP Paestum Aglianico 2017 (750ml) *
Product price
$99.99
Description
Aglianico is Campania's great structural red, and this bottling from San Salvatore, an IGP Paestum wine carrying the 2017 vintage, shows the grape in a serious register. It takes its name from Eugenio "Gillo" Dorfles, the Italian art critic whose own artwork appears on the front label, and it spends 24 months in oak before release. This came from a hot, dry growing season, which pushed the wine toward power and a fuller frame (alcohol sits at 15%).
The nose leans exotic, exotic spice and cedar shavings over crushed wild blueberry and cherry liqueur, with a darker undercurrent of black fruit and scorched earth from the warm year. On the palate it feels velvety and elegant, fresh acidity keeping the red and black fruit lifted while a web of fine-grained tannins wraps everything in youthful poise. A pleasantly bitter edge lingers alongside fading notes of steeped plum. It is built for the cellar, dense and primary now, with the balance to reward patience.
Expert Reviews
The 2017 Aglianico Gillo Dorfles is perfumed with a bouquet that blends exotic spices with cedar shavings, crushed wild blueberries and cherry liqueur. This is elegant in feel, with velvety textures lifted by fresh acidity as red and black fruits slowly saturate the palate in primary concentration. A web of fine-grained tannins wraps the palate in youthful poise as a pleasantly bitter tinge resonates. Hints of steeped plum slowly fade. The 2017 will require extensive cellaring to come fully into focus, but it possesses the balance necessary for a long evolution. (Vinous)
From a hot and dry growing season, the 2017 Aglianico Omaggio a Gillo Dorfles is powerful and darkly saturated. This vintage shows dark and monotone layers of black fruit, spice and scorched earth. The wine's power (with 15% alcohol) and intensity make up for the loss of nuance in the fruit (that shows best in the cooler years). Eugenio "Gillo" Dorfles was an Italian art critic, and the colorful artwork on the front label is his. This wine ages in oak for 24 months, and 8,400 bottles were released. (Wine Advocate, October 2022)