Chardonnay grown in the cool maritime reaches of the Sta. Rita Hills tends toward both ripeness and tension, and this 2022 bottling from Sea Smoke Cellars works squarely in that register. It is a California white made in a richer, lees-influenced style, but the cool-climate spine keeps it from tipping into excess.
Expect a generous core of honeyed apple and golden mango, lifted by toasted spice and a whisper of cinnamon. There is real weight here, voluptuous fruit and a leesy texture, yet a grippy line of acid and phenolics runs underneath, giving the wine drive and keeping everything on point. The balance between richness and lift is what holds your attention.
The 2022 Chardonnay is rich, cool-toned and leesy, showing honeyed apple, golden mango, toasted spice and a touch of cinnamon over a grippy spine of acid and phenolics. Beneath the voluptuous fruit lies tension and drive that keep the wine on point. It carries weight, yet everything is balanced by structure and lift. (Vinous)