te Pa Marlborough Pinot Noir RESERVE 2020 (750ml) *

Marlborough is best known for zippy Sauvignon Blanc, but its Pinot Noir can carry real structure, and this Reserve bottling from te Pa makes that case. It's a 2020 from the top of New Zealand's South Island, built with a portion of whole-cluster fruit that lends the wine grip rather than the easygoing fruitiness the region sometimes gets pegged with. Sealed under screw cap, farmed sustainably.

Expect a firm, almost chewy frame, with dark mocha and coffee notes from the oak and a slight furriness from the stems. Underneath sits an attractive spectrum of red cherry, cola, dried herbs and vanilla, along with a savory, smoky, grilled-mushroom character. The tannins run assertive against the fresh fruit at this stage, so there's good concentration and long, scented length here with more to give as it settles. Drinkable now for those who like their Pinot with backbone, and a candidate for some time in the cellar.