Thomas Fogarty Henry Ayrton's Pinot Noir Santa Cruz Mountains 2017 (750ml) *

The Santa Cruz Mountains coax a particular kind of Pinot Noir out of the fog and elevation, cool-climate and structured rather than plush, and this single-block bottling from Thomas Fogarty sits squarely in that mold. It comes from the Henry Ayrton's Block of the Rapley Trail Vineyard, a 2017 vintage grown high above the coastal reach south of San Francisco.

Pale to medium ruby in the glass, this is a wine that keeps its cards close at first, unfurling slowly toward broody red and black cherry, crushed plum, and darker savory notes of loam, bay leaf, and chaparral, with lifts of blueberry, floral perfume, and orange peel around the edges. The palate is medium-bodied and gains momentum as it opens, spiced red and black fruit set against a firm, chalky frame and a seamless line of freshness that carries the finish long. There is real immediacy and silk to the fruit already, but the underlying structure suggests it will reward a few years of patience.