Villa Poggio Salvi Brunello Di Montalcino 2021 (750ml) *

Brunello di Montalcino draws its structure and longevity from Sangiovese grown on the hillsides around the town of Montalcino in southern Tuscany, and this 2021 from Villa Poggio Salvi is a young, ageworthy example of the style. Deep ruby in the glass, full-bodied and firmly built, it is the kind of wine made to reward patience in the cellar rather than immediate gratification.

The nose is ripe and savory at once, preserved black cherry and sour cherry giving way to lavender, sweet herbs, balsamic, cocoa powder, and a mushroomy earthiness. On the palate it is round and generous, even jovial, though the ripe tannins are still building and the finish clenches and gains grip as it lingers. Bright acidity keeps everything lifted and fresh. There is real depth here, and a few years in the bottle will draw it out.